Virginie Combe is the sixth generation to helm her family’s 205-acre estate, the largest in the appellation, with nearly 150 of those acres in Vacqueyras proper. She sustains a strictly old-school regime of whole-bunch fermentations in concrete tanks, an approach that reads clearly in this meaty, chewy 2018. It’s dense and dark, with gum-sticking tannins, a black wine slow to reveal its details. But when it does, it shines, the cherry flavors threaded with notes of thyme and sunbaked stones. Decant it or hold it for another five to ten years.
93 points, Wine & Spirits (Oct 2020)