2020 Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos (750ml)

Mencia from Bierzo, Castilla y Leon, Spain

B-21 Top Recommendation
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When it comes to the Bierzo wines from iconic 100 pt. winemaker Alvaro Palacios, the Wine Advocate’s Spanish expert Luis Gutierrez doesn’t mince any words: “Descendientes de J. Palacios is the most coherent, moving, thrilling and consistent wine project in Spain. Period.” Here’s a terrific opportunity to stock up on these magnificently crafted beauties from Descendientes de J. Palacios and confirm what their loyal fans already know – these delicious Spanish reds are some of Spain’s top values as well.

During the late 1980s, Alvaro Palacios travelled throughout Spain searching for a special terroir from which he could craft his native country’s greatest wine, deciding on Priorat as the place to launch his project and achieving international critical acclaim with the single vineyard L’Ermita. Never losing sight of his second choice, the Bierzo DO in northwest Spain, Alvaro formed a partnership with his nephew Ricardo Perez, also a Bordeaux-trained enologist with experience at Chateau Margaux, establishing Descendientes de J. Palacios in 1998 in Bierzo’s rugged hillsides in the foothills of the Sierra de Los Ancares, the combination of its poor schist soils and unique protected microclimate deemed the perfect terroir for growing the indigenous red grape Mencia and producing fragrant, mineral-driven wines often likened to Pinot Noir. Sourced from a patchwork of organically farmed parcels with vines over 60 years of age near the village of Corullon, the elegant 93 pt. 2020 Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos is a blend of mainly Mencia co-planted and co-fermented with other local grapes from a diverse range of soils, altitudes and exposures, yielding exotic aromas of fresh, pure fruit hinting of graphite and spice and “always one of the best values not only of Bierzo but for the whole of Spain” according to the Wine Advocate’s Gutierrez.

Described by the Wine Enthusiast as “Spain’s most exciting wine region” but off the radar of many Spanish wine aficionados, Descendiente de J. Palacios might certainly garner a higher premium given the hefty price tag of the Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita yet remain delightfully affordable and one of Spain’s top buys, value priced to scoop up by the case and reach for without hesitation.

93WA

92JS

91WS

The regional red 2020 Pétalos comes from 90 hectares of vineyards, mainly from Corullón and Villafranca del Bierzo and the districts of Viariz, Hornija, Valtuille de Abajo and Otero. It mixes expositions, altitudes and soils and wants to paint a picture of Bierzo in the warm 2020 vintage. They reckon it's 92% Mencía with 5% other red grapes (Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro, Pan y Carne and Negreda) and 3% whites (Valenciana, Jerez and Godello) with an average yield of 26 hectoliters per hectare. The grapes were picked from August 28th to September 24th and fermented partly destemmed in stainless steel and oak vats with indigenous yeasts for 43 days with a slow malolactic fermentation that lasted two months. The wine matured in barrel for around eight months (malolactic was fast, and the wines were put in barrel early) and was bottled unclarified, unfiltered and non-stabilized with cold. It has good ripeness with 14% alcohol (their upper limit) and moderate acidity at 4.6 grams (of tartaric acid). It's a little more fruit-driven, a vintage of sun, jovial and juicy, approachable and round with very fine, slightly powdery tannins. The fruit is darker than in the 2019. This is still young, and, as it happens with even the most approachable wines from the region, it should be even better in a couple of years. I tasted it again in mid-December, and the wine is showing better and better; time in bottle has done it some good, and the wine has settled and is getting more balanced. I don't feel the sun now; it's harmonious and more serious, juicy and tasty. A little better than anticipated. They had 1,050 barrels that produced 263,000 bottles and 1,500 magnums. It was bottled in May 2021.

93+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (Issue # 261 - Jun 2022)

A rather dense expression here, with dark cherries and hints of lavender and oyster sauce to the slate, crushed blueberries, dark cherries and baked strawberries. Full-bodied and tannic, but silky and powdery. Long and tangy to the end. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but better in 2024.

92 points, James Suckling (Sep 2022)

Offering a minerally underpinning and overtones of bramble, herbs and spice, this medium-bodied red is fresh and focused, with juicy black raspberry and black cherry fruit, olive and iron flavors. Bright and well-balanced, with light, chalky tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 30,000 cases made.

91 points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator (Oct 2022)

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