2022 Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco Nerina (750ml)

Carricante from Etna, Sicily, Italy

B-21 Top Recommendation
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Described as “one of the volcano’s most talented producers” by the Wine Advocate’s Monic Larner, these selections from winemaker Giuseppe Russo of Girolamo Russo features some of Sicily’s top-rated Mount Etna wines, a terrific opportunity to explore the outstanding range of wines crafted from Sicily’s volcanic terroir by a masterful winemaker that “never disappoints” at best on the market pricing.

While the steep, terraced vineyards of Mount Etna have attracted winemakers and consultants from all over the world, winemaker Giuseppe Russo is Sicilian born and bred, drawn back to his family’s roots in Passopisciaro after the death of his father Girolamo who had been farming vineyards on the slopes of Mt. Etna for decades but never bottling his own wine. Establishing the winery that bears his father’s name in 2005, Giuseppe’s organically farmed vineyards span 15 hectares on Etna’s windy northern slope, surrounded by olive and hazelnut trees at altitudes from 650 to 780 meters above sea level and planted with a range of indigenous grapes including the white Carricante and red Nerello Mascalese in Etna’s wide-ranging mineral-rich volcanic soils. Arranged in rows along narrow terraces held in place by stone walls, the steep terrain requires all the vineyard work including harvesting be done by hand, the ungrafted, gnarly bush vines called albarelli or “little trees” ranging from 80 to 100 years of age and divided into individual plots or single vineyards known locally as contradas based on each parcel’s unique soil composition. Sourced from 80 year old Nerello Mascalese and “an incredible value” rose according to the Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner, the elegant 92 pt. 2022 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato blends fresh, ripe red berry and stone fruit flavors with nuances of mineral and spice and crisp acidity, while the enticing lemony-colored 93 pt. 2022 Etna Bianco Nerina is “a total pleasure to take in” according to Eric Guido of Vinous, boasting fragrant tropical fruit with zesty lemon on a mineral finish. A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Cappucio from various sites, Giuseppe co-fermented the grapes for the 94 pt. 2021 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso 'a Rina in stainless steel and open tanks before aging it for 12 months in large Slavonian oak casks and concrete tanks and six months longer in bottle, yielding aromatic, bright red fruit hinting of nutty spice with smooth, silky tannins. Described as “remarkably pretty” by Eric Guido of Vinous, the 96 pt. 2021 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso San Lorenzo “is one of the most impressive interpretations of Etna” according to the Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner revealing rich, vibrant fruit and an elegant silky texture, while the 96 pt. 2021 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso from 100% Nerello Mascalese is “one of the finest wines made on Etna in recent years,” revealing concentrated, ripe berry fruit with refined, chalky tannins. Sourced from the estate’s oldest high elevation vines, the refined 96 pt. 2021 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is described as “beautifully ethereal and almost weightless in character” by critic Larner, offering darker, fleshy fruit and streamlined tannins that promise longevity.

Recently declaring “Sicily is going through a Golden Age,” Vinous critic Eric Guido notes “the best part is that, overall, the wines are still an amazing value,” these highly rated selections from Girolamo Russo artfully expressing Mt. Etna’s uniquely volcanic terroir and unbeatably priced to explore and savor the wines of Sicily’s most exciting region.

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Nerina is one of my favorite whites from Etna, especially when consumed young and fresh. The Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Bianca Nerina is especially crisp and bright with a polished, glossy feel. Aromas of citrus, white peach and honey rise to the top. Honestly, I've never been able to hold onto a bottle long enough to trace its evolution.

93 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Jun 2023)

This is perfumed with notes of citrus blossom and citrus leaf as well as white peaches and chalky soil. Beautiful texture with a medium body and vivid acidity cutting through. Sleek and delicious with a refreshing, minty finish. Drink or hold.

93 points, James Suckling (Sep 2023)

The 2022 Etna Bianco Nerina is a total pleasure to take in, wafting up with a tropical-inspired yet refined bouquet of fresh mangos, bananas, mint leaves and sweet smoke. It’s soft and round in texture with ripe yellow pit fruits. A candied lemon spritz adds a lovely zestiness. This finishes quite mineral in style, nearly crunchy in feel with citrus and kiwi notes. The 2022 is almost too easy to like, yet the balance is spot on.

91 points, Eric Guido, Vinous (Sep 2023)

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$39.98

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