"...yet another stunning collection." - Anne Krebiehl, Vinous
For Riesling fans, there are few names that hold a candle to Dönnhoff, and this set from the exceptional 2023 vintage only adds to their lofty reputation and track record. One of the most consistently excellent estates in the world, they need little introduction to collectors of reference-point Riesling. At every level of the prädikat scale, they've hit one homerun after another.
Starting with the Kabinetten, led by the "stunningly elegant and vibrant" JS96 Leistenberg, we see the crystalline purity and class that defines all of Dönnhoff's wines. Of course, the flagship Hermannshöhle Spätlese remains the estate's most famous and coveted expression, and in 2023 it's "serene, zesty, tender, yet so very serious ... glorious in its lightness and disarming in its elegance," a 99-point showstopper that will stand with the finest vintages of this perennial collectible all-star. In the Auslese category, along with the "ravishing beauty" of the 99-point Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff's Brücke monopole also produced a near-perfect, "very radical wine with gigantic concentration of cool tropical fruit and mineral acidity."
The crown jewels, of course, are the estate's singular GGs, led by two utterly perfect expressions from Hermannshöhle and Dellchen. While this pair will be among Germany's most exquisite and coveted dry wines of the vintage, collectors shouldn't overlook the sheer class and sophistication of the Krotenpfuhl and Felsenberg, the latter being "a total joy of clarity, direction, and stony poise" with 98-point potential per Vinous' Anne Krebiehl.
With the absolute cream of the Dönnhoff crop all represented below, no matter which direction you turn in this line-up, you'll find yourself with a world-class, unforgettable expression that will shine like few others can.
A stunningly elegant and vibrant riesling Kabinett that is packed with white peach and honeysuckle aromas. Succulent on the front of the light-bodied palate, then with a crystalline purity at the finish that takes your breath away. This is not analytically dry, but plenty of enthusiastic wine drinkers will say that is exactly what it is. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
96 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2024)
The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett is from a south-east-facing site of shale, getting the morning sun; this is never affected by botrytis and is shaded in the afternoon, so a late harvest is possible because botrytis never occurs, and acids are preserved. The nose combines lemon zest, stone and herbal tisane. The palate adds just a little sweetness, giving the charm to the citric verve, but all remains light, tender, bright and so deceptively easy. What a tease, what elegance, what lemon resonance! (Medium)
94 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Sep 2024)
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