"The wines are compelling in a rather quiet way, understated but so convincing." - Anne Krebiehl, Vinous
"They are of a consistently high quality and, in my opinion, still far too rarely on the radar of importers, retailers and sommeliers." - Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Alsace as a whole is often considered an under-the-radar region, so when we come upon a domaine that is known as "under the radar," it's safe to say it's probably far under the radar. The shame is, as Wine Advocate's Stephan Reinhardt notes above, that wines and domaines like these deserve far more attention. However, clued-in and savvy wine collectors can reap serious benefits in the form of world-class cellar contenders at prices that are a fraction of what you'd pay for comparable quality and pedigree from Burgundy, Champagne, or virtually anywhere else in France.
Domaine Schoffit's vineyard stable is loaded with prime sites, but the unquestioned jewel in the crown is the Clos St-Théobald in the Rangen de Thann Grand Cru, inarguably the finest vineyard in Alsace. At 6.5 hectares, the Clos is now a monopole since Bernard Schoffit completed his ambitious reclamation project to unite the entire site under his domaine. The super-steep slopes and volcanic soitls produce one of the world's most distinctive Rieslings, and the 97-point 2022 ranks among the greatest vintages ever made of this wine. Not to be overlooked, the 2022 Sommerberg Grand Cru Riesling is another singular standout, this from granitic soils that shine in the wine's stunning combination of aromatic purity and textural intensity. Finally, the 2022 Harth Gewürztraminer showcases Schoffit's great sites around Colmar with fantastic varietal precision, particularly "the glorious spice of Gewürztraminer" as Anne Krebiehl notes.
It bears repeating – these wines belong on the short list of Alsace's finest names along side the Weinbachs, Trimbachs, and Zind-Humbrechts, so if you're a serious Alsace fan or collector of the world's best Rieslings, make room in the cellar. You'll be so glad you did.
The 2022 Gewurztraminer Lieu-Dit Harth Cuvée Caroline is golden in the glass. The vines are from a massal selection with orange rather than dark skins. The nose is creamy with a gently spicy honeysuckle and a hint of iron oxide. The palate is beautifully smooth, with a creamy body that is mild, gentle and rounded. The finish displays the glorious spice of Gewurztraminer. Schoffit notes that he does not care about preserving acidity in this wine, as the vines deliver a natural balance. And yes, the wine is mild, but the tingling phenolics, combining grape and peach skin with citrus pith, make the mouth water with noble, floral, spicy bitterness. This is full-bodied with 12 g/L residual sweetness, finishing just about off-dry. (Off-Dry)
92 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Apr 2024)
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