B-21 Top Recommendation Read More
Our direct-import train keeps chugging down the tracks in Burgundy, this time to the southern Mâcon appellation, where Mathieu Paquet's family domaine has been on a quiet roll in recent vintage, largely unnoticed by Burgundy fans this side of the Atlantic. Our visit with Mathieu earlier this year at Wine Paris confirmed this is a domaine to be reckoned with, not only in terms of sheer quality, but price as well, as you'll clearly see in this pair of spectacular, 95-point 2022s. These are benchmark Mâcon expressions for some of the most sensible pricing you'll see in today's Burgundy landscape.
"A rich and suave Saint-Veran," the 2022 Saint-Véran 99 Coupées shows simply gorgeous delineation and uncommon complexity for its appellation. A blend of nine plots in the villages of Davayé and Prissé, it carries all the hallmarks of the excellent vintage, as well as the fine-tuned, meticulous work that Mathieu and Camille Paquet have instituted in the vineyards since taking over their parents' domaine. Their holdings are quite extensive, so it's no small feat to farm such a domaine with these exacting standards, but the results are undeniable. Not only does the 2022 99 Coupées offer up pure white Burgundy class for a steal, it also offers up loads of pure pleasure for a price that makes it easy for anyone to jump on board.
Also boasting 95 points from James Suckling's Burgundy critic, Stuart Pigott, the 2022 Saint-Véran En Creches is endowed with "excellent concentration [and] so much chalky energy and citric freshness." This vineyard on the border of Davayé and Vergisson is just downslope from the famed Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru La Roche, and its ideal combination of shallow clay topsoils and limestone sub-stratum makes for the kind of excellent Chardonnay pedigree from which all great white Burgundy comes. In recent years, we've started to see Pouilly-Fuissé prices follow the rising price trend that has long since become the norm in the Côte d'Or, but these utterly charming Saint-Véran is clear evidence of this appellation's incredible penchant for quality and value. |