"The [Aperture] wines offer hedonistic pleasure across the range, offering high-octane power balanced with superb elegance ...They are continuing to offer blockbuster wines, especially their 2021 releases."
- Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com
One of the more impressive boutique operations in Sonoma County today has nothing at all to do with Pinot Noir. Winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars is emerging as a bona fide master of Bordeaux varietals in the appellation, and his track record is one of unbroken success, garnering acclaim from across the critical spectrum on an annual basis. The 2021s are arguably Katz's finest efforts yet, clearly evident in the double 96-point 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon. Blended from almost all of the estate's prized parcels in Alexander Valley and Healdsburg, it's a profoundly luxurious expression that manages to maintain superb balance and weightless precision thanks to the expert touch of the winemaking team. If you're looking for a California Cabernet with impeccable, cellar-worthy pedigree and a drinking window that will span the better part of two decades, look no further.
The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Aperture's estate vineyard in Healdsburg and their newest vineyard acquisition, Farrow Ranch in Alexander Valley, plus some of the original single vineyards in the Aperture program like Oliver Ranch. It is blended with 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc and was matured for 16 months in 55% new French oak. It has vibrant, layered aromas of blueberry compote, lavender, aniseed, milk chocolate and nutmeg with undertones of cast iron and tobacco leaves. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled, pairing deep flavors with a weightless feel due to its bright acidity and velvety tannins. It has a long, latent finish and deserves 3-5 years in bottle. 4,480 cases produced.
96 points, Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate (Dec 2023)
The 2021 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon layers in 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot fruit. It is the first wine that Jesse Katz made when he started the Aperture brand, and for the 2021 vintage, he leveraged an excellent amount of Farrow Ranch fruit, a vineyard he bought the year of this harvest. It also includes fruit from single blocks in other vineyards, such as Del Rio and Oliver Ranch. Katz crafted such a supple, easy-drinking Cabernet in 2021, with layers of deliciousness matched only by the structure that holds it all together. Waves of blue and black fruits mingle with heady cigar box and red rock volcanics, all dusted with notes of white pepper. The polished, supple tannins have a wonderful buoyancy to them and provide a wonderful foundation for the wealth of super velvety dark fruits on the palate. Flavours of Bing cherry, plum, and blueberry, wrapped in tobacco leaves and dusted again with more white pepper notes, provide a foundation for nuances of crushed cocoa nibs on the finish. Long, layered, and mineral-rich, with a host of baking spices and lively floral qualities, this red is immensely drinkable out of the gate.
96 points, Jonathan Cristaldi, Decanter (May 2024)
Pouring a deep red/purple color, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has the addition of 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 3% Malbec and a splash of Cabernet Franc, all raised in 55% new French oak for 18 months. It’s aromatic of brambly crunchy fruits, with notes of blackberries, resinous herbs, mossy forest earth, and mocha. Full-bodied and light on its feel, with lovely freshness, it offers refined tannins and a good deal of length, with an even spine of acidity to hold up its decadent nature. It is going to be an age-worthy wine to enjoy over the next 15 or so years.
95 points, Audrey Frick, Jeb Dunnuck (Jun 2024)
Deeply ruby-black colored and powerfully structured, this Cabernet gives aromas of spiced cherry compote, black currant and cassis on the nose. The palate is decadent and complex, with layers of rich, ripe berry fruit mingling with hints of violet, cocoa powder, cinnamon and black pepper in a balanced but ageworthy framework.
95 points, Tom R. Capo, Wine Enthusiast (Nov 2024)
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