Surprisingly, the 2023 les Clos from Guillaume Michel is the most expressive aromatically of his three grand crus this year, though it is still plenty buttoned up behind its fine structural chassis on the palate. The beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a very complex blend of apple., pear, fresh lime, a complex base of flinty minerality, orange zest and dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, precise and full-bodied, with a fine spine of acidity, great depth of fruit at the core, superb mineral undertow and cut and a long, nascently complex and impeccably balanced finish. This too will demand plenty of bottle age before it begins to truly blossom.
95+ points, John Gilman, View From the Cellar (Feb 2025)
The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos once again asserts itself as the most powerful and commanding wine in Michel’s portfolio this year. It unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon confit, apricot and Mirabelle plum, interwoven with notes of freshly baked bread and beeswax. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy yet controlled, it displays considerable reserves of structuring extract that lend energy to its muscular, vinous core. Uniting amplitude with incisiveness, it culminates in a long, persistent finish.
94+ points, Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (Jan 2026)
The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from a single parcel towards the Valmur side that was vinified in a new smaller tank as mildew had reduced quantity. The nose is very harmonious and poised, perhaps even more complex than the 2022. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with a powerful orange rind and spicy finish. It just needs more sustain and it will require a long élevage to create a sense of harmony. It will get there though.
92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Aug 2024)
Clear pale colour. Energy on the nose plus a touch of volatility. The Clos has not quite shrugged off its primary aromas. There is density at the back, a little bit of sunshine, slightly awkward in its adolescence but with the muscle that Clos should have.
92 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2025)
A cool and airy nose freely offers up its decidedly smoky aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, quinine, shellfish and lemon zest. The utterly delicious, solidly intense and overtly powerful large-bodied flavors are plush yet sleek and mineral-infused while displaying very fine length on the bone-dry, clean and well-balanced finale. What this isn't though, at least not yet in any case, is especially complex so patience will be necessary, which I hasten to point out is not unusual for a very young Les Clos.
92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound (Oct 2025)
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