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B-21 Top Recommendation
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"...the rate of improvement at this address has surpassed anything I thought possible, and this is now clearly an estate to watch closely."
- William Kelley,Wine Advocate
One of the great recent renaissance stories in Burgundy, Domaine des Malandes has enjoyed a meteoric rise in quality of late, driven by oenologist Guenole Breteaudeau and estate manager Richard Rottiers, whose own acclaimed Beaujolais domaine has propelled that region's upward trajectory through the last decade. An enviable stable of prime vineyard parcels now produces a benchmark line-up that is garnering serious attention once again. We tasted the entire line-up recently, and we can unequivocally say that these 2022s are absolutely enchanting.
Described by Neal Martin of Vinous as "lovely" and "well balanced," the 92-point 2022 1er Cru Mont de Milieu shows the character of the growing season in its rich tropical notes and bright acidity, while the 93-point 2022 1er Cru Cote de Lechet is a classically styled, steely Chablis with crisp, vibrant fruit and a lengthy, flinty finish, dubbed a "top choice for Chablis purists" by Martin. From two of the region's best known 1er Crus and both aged in 20% used oak, the 2022 Montmains offers fresh, pure fruit flavors with a "subtle note of wood" according to Decanter's Andy Howard that's "all kept in check by some lovely, direct acidity," while the 2022 Fourchaume boasts "a rich core of fruit, good concentration and bright acids" according to Wine Advocate's William Kelley. Two outstanding Grand Crus sourced from old vine parcels showcase the heights of the domaine's potential excellence. The WA93 "satiny and suave" Vaudesir is "a fine success," while Kelley describes the 94-point Les Clos as "deep and layered" with 15 or more years of aging ahead. Both are matured in a mix of mainly neutral large oak barrels and stainless steel and rank among Kelley's top picks of the vintage, along with Chablis royalty Raveneau and Dauvissat.
As Martin notes, Chablis "continues to offer a slew of affordable alternatives to Cote de Beaune whites," clearly demonstrated in these selections from Domaine des Malandes, which are easily among the region's most undervalued gems. |
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The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a success, unwinding in the glass with notes of white flowers, orange zest, pear and green apple, framed by a deft touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's pure and racy, with bright acids and a chalky finish.
92+ points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Sep 2023)
Biscuity and stony notes here combined with grapefruit, green apples and lime curd. It’s medium-bodied, textured and creamy. Bright and mineral finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now or hold.
92 points, James Suckling (Dec 2023)
A fine example with plenty of warmth on the palate, purity of fruit, a subtle note of wood (20% of the blend), but all kept in check by some lovely, direct acidity. Hint of stoniness on the finish to match the lingering flavour of stone fruit.
92 points, Andy Howard, Decanter (Oct 2023)
The 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru sports a clever touch of reduction on the nose, enhancing its delineation. Good energy here. The palate is smooth and cohesive, with fine acidity, lightly spiced with a gentle build in the mouth. One of the spiciest Montmains I encountered on the finish that, while not complex, it is packed with flavor and will drink well for a decade.
90 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Sep 2023)
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