The Fritz Haag 2009 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling feinherb captures that hidden sweetness and mouthwatering fruit-mineral exchange displayed by its “village” counterpart, here suffused with crushed stone, shrimp shell reduction, oceanic salinity, apple pit piquancy and herbal pungency, allied to tart apple and gooseberry. There is a slight sense of sweet-sour discord here, at least for now, and at 12% alcohol it seems to have sacrificed a bit of delicacy and swing. Still, this displays excellent concentration and persistence, and for minerality, versatility, as well as, I suspect, longevity (of a decade or more), this strikes me – like its yet more exciting 2008 counterpart – as representative stylistically of what a Mosel Grosses Gewachs Mosel could more usefully and enticingly be, if one didn’t insist on legal Trockenheit. 90 points, David Schildknecht for Robert Parker's Wine Advocate #192 (DEC 2010)
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