2003 Tabarrini Montefalco Sagrantino Colle alle Machie (Umbria): The 2003 Sagrantino di Montefalco Colle alle Macchie is a ripe, full-bodied wine loaded with dark fruit and sweet toasted oak. The tannins are soft, round and remarkably well-balanced in this accessible, powerful expression of Sagrantino. The Colle alle Macchie is made from a south-exposed vineyard. Although the style here is decidedly modern, subsequent vintages point to greater elegance and finesse. This is an excellent choice for readers looking for a Sagrantino to enjoy with minimum cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015.
The Tabarrini family has been making wine for over four generations, but only within the last decade has begun to bottle its own wines rather than selling them in bulk. It’s awfully hard not to admire proprietor Giampaolo Tabarrini’s outsize exuberance and sheer passion. Tabarrini is a young producer still in search of his own voice. I tasted a number of wines during a visit to the property and found quality to be variable. That said, everything points to a mostly increasing level of quality beginning around 2002. In fact, the 2002 Sagrantino di Montefalco, from a supposedly very weak vintage, was absolutely delicious. With a little more maturity and confidence, and a touch less forceful winemaking, Tabarrini has the potential to develop into one of Umbria’s top producers. 90 points, The Wine Advocate #182 (April 2009)
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