"...yet another stunning collection." - Anne Krebiehl, Vinous
For Riesling fans, there are few names that hold a candle to Dönnhoff, and this set from the exceptional 2023 vintage only adds to their lofty reputation and track record. One of the most consistently excellent estates in the world, they need little introduction to collectors of reference-point Riesling. At every level of the prädikat scale, they've hit one homerun after another.
Starting with the Kabinetten, led by the "stunningly elegant and vibrant" JS96 Leistenberg, we see the crystalline purity and class that defines all of Dönnhoff's wines. Of course, the flagship Hermannshöhle Spätlese remains the estate's most famous and coveted expression, and in 2023 it's "serene, zesty, tender, yet so very serious ... glorious in its lightness and disarming in its elegance," a 99-point showstopper that will stand with the finest vintages of this perennial collectible all-star. In the Auslese category, along with the "ravishing beauty" of the 99-point Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff's Brücke monopole also produced a near-perfect, "very radical wine with gigantic concentration of cool tropical fruit and mineral acidity."
The crown jewels, of course, are the estate's singular GGs, led by two utterly perfect expressions from Hermannshöhle and Dellchen. While this pair will be among Germany's most exquisite and coveted dry wines of the vintage, collectors shouldn't overlook the sheer class and sophistication of the Krotenpfuhl and Felsenberg, the latter being "a total joy of clarity, direction, and stony poise" with 98-point potential per Vinous' Anne Krebiehl.
With the absolute cream of the Dönnhoff crop all represented below, no matter which direction you turn in this line-up, you'll find yourself with a world-class, unforgettable expression that will shine like few others can.
Welcome to the Bladerunner of Nahe riesling Spatlese. This is also extremely fine and complex, with a cornucopia of stone fruit, exotic fruit and spices. Radical stony minerality and racy acidity, yet with a feather-light mouthfeel on the barely medium-bodied palate. Then you wonder if the wine will ever leave you, so long is the almost endless farewell. Drink or hold.
99 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Aug 2024)
The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese, grown on shale, has equal notions of moss and lemon. More air makes this smell simply of wet stone. The palate carries gentle sweetness but is absolutely precise and slender. Citrus frames everything with the clearest precision. Everything is serene, zesty, tender, yet so very serious. The 2023 is glorious in its lightness and disarming in its elegance. (Sweet)
97 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Sep 2024)
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