"The unassuming but passionate Thierry Glantenay continues to produce delicious, sensual wines in his cellars in Volnay." - William Kelley, Wine Advocate
One of Volnay and Pommard's best kept secrets, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay somehow still flies under the radar, despite producing some of the most consistently and widely acclaimed wines in these appellations. The only drawback is that they're always tightly allocated and in short supply, which makes our in-stock parcel a truly enticing proposition.
The entire range is well worth seeking out, but the undisputed highlights start with the 94-point, "superb" Clos des Chenes 1er Cru, "perfectly proportioned and built for the long haul" according to John Gilman of View From the Cellar. This site's familiar power and energy are readily on display in grand fashion in 2022. The "equally stunning" Santenots 1er Cru delivers another benchmark terroir expression in its "velvety and harmonious" profile. Finally, don't miss the epic Les Rugiens 1er Cru, "the most complex and complete amongst Glantenay's range ... a Pommard to hunt down" as Vinous' Neal Martin puts it.
Glantenay's approach in the cellar and in the vineyards has resulted in a steady upward trajectory for the domaine over the past several years, and the wines are now flirting with the titans of Volnay and Pommard while still remaining relatively accessible for collectors looking for real long-term propositions at savvy prices.
While Thierry Glantenay is very happy with the quality of his 2023s, it was quite clear during my visit that he considers his 2022s to be the superior vintage at his domaine. I am not sure what is the reason, but in the 2022 vintage, the Clos des Chênes is again a touch riper than the rest of the Volnay lineup (as was the case in 2023 as well), coming in at 14.5 percent octane in this vintage. That said, the wine is still beautifully pure and vibrant on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet revealing scents of black plums, black cherries, violets, coffee bean, gamebird, woodsmoke, dark soil tones and a gentle framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused, pure and sappy at the core, with great mineral drive and grip, firm, buried tannins, a good spine of acidity and great balance on the long, nascently complex and very, very promising finish. This seems perfectly proportioned and built for the long haul. Superb juice!
94 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar (Apr 2025)
The 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is the ripest, most dramatic wine in the cellar, as is often the case, bursting with aromas of cherries, plums, spices and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and voluminous palate, with a sweet core of fruit framed by rich structuring tannin.
92-94 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Jan 2024)
The 2022 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru contains 25% to 30% whole bunches this vintage. The energetic bouquet offers redcurrant and raspberry fruit, fine mineralité and tension. Hints of black truffle shavings emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. There’s a liberal sprinkling of black pepper here, the stem addition perhaps the most tangible amongst the cuvées yet commensurate with the fruit concentration. This is another success for the estate in 2022.
92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2024)
Finish with this because it is their richest wine, and touches 14.5%. Rich ripe raspberries with an intense plum or two. There is a density of fruit, a sucrosity across the palate, but the extra ripeness just takes away a little bit of the vineyard character. The fruit is not cooked but goes beyond the point of optimum elegance. Tasted Oct 2023.
89-92 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jan 2024)
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