The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino pulls you close to take in its spicy mix of wild herbs, white pepper, rosehips and zesty sour cherries. This gains a smoky sweetness the longer it sits in the glass. In textbook Voliero style, a wave of salty minerality greets you on the palate, followed by silky textures and tart wild berry fruits. It impresses with its vivacity and cheek-puckering tension, tapering off with purple-tinged florals, lightly structured and remarkably fresh. There’s no rush here, as the 2020 could use a little time to unwind.
90 points, Eric Guido, Vinous (Jan 2022)