A new addition to our direct-import program, Fallet-Dart should be better known than they are, and they would be if they weren't located all the way out at the western end of the Marne Valley in Drachy. Their vineyards are exceptional, and their use of extended sur lie aging adds dimension and depth to their wines that we don't often see in this part of Champagne.
"The Eocene offers further proof that Fallet-Dart is an unsung reference-point for late-disgorgement Champagnes of uncompromising class and value." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Champagne Buyer
Fallet-Dart's Eocene is named for the geologic era that formed the ancient soils of the La Niclotte vineyard. Made entirely from the 2009 vintage, bottled in 2010, and disgorged in March of this year, the Eocene is every bit the classic late-disgorgement expression. The ripeness of the vintage and the 20% Pinot Noir component give the wine its world-class depth of fruit, but the vineyard's soils and the light dosage (only 2g/L) endow it with absolutely shimmering vinous intensity and mineral vibrance. The lifted, high-toned flavor and aroma profiles offer a fascinating counterpoint to the Clos du Mont's more mature and evolved character (even though this wine spent fifteen years on the lees itself!). Who knew that we'd have to go all the way out to the western end of the Marne Valley to find one of the most compelling Champagnes we've come across in a long time? Hyperbole? Maybe. But once you dive into the specs on the Fallet-Dart Les Hauts Clos du Mont, you'll see where we're coming from.
"...a flat-out stunning new addition to our direct-import stable, and arguably the savviest collectible Champagne buy we've brought on board in a long time." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Champagne Buyer
Fallet-Dart's prized vineyard, from which this wine comes, sits on a bend of the Marne River with perfect southeast exposition, having been under vine for over a thousand years. The Les Hauts Clos du Mont hails entirely from the now-legendary 2006 vintage and is a masterclass in oak vinification and sur lie aging. As indicated on the label, it was bottled in 2007 and has spent nearly 17 years on the lees! A wine of "head-spinning complexity" as Andrew describes it, this is luxury Champagne at its best, at a price that defies all market conditions and factors. As Andrew succinctly puts it, "If you're a fan of Bollinger's RD, set that one aside and buy three bottles of this for the same price – you won't be disappointed."
Avid collectors and Champagne fans should have no shortage of fun comparing these two benchmark beauties in the years to come.
The Eocene offers further proof that Fallet-Dart is an unsung reference-point for late-disgorgement Champagnes of uncompromising class and value. Like their tête de cuvée Les Hauts des Clos du Mont, it’s a single-vineyard expression from an undeclared vintage, in this case from the La Niclotte lieu-dit in 2009. Disgorged in January 2025, the Eocene spent 15 years on its lees, and it’s a masterful execution of the style. The vintage itself shows through in beautiful form – luxurious ripeness without the ponderous weight that can sometimes dull the terroir definition in a warm vintage. The ancient calcareous marine soils of La Niclotte show up in aromas of vivid, high-toned citrus (makrut lime and tangerine zest) and enchanting oyster shell minerality, while the vintage lends notes of deep peach and apricot skin in the background. The aromatic profile is framed by scintillating vinous intensity and toasty brioche and baguette undertones. The palate is all balanced richness, again a hallmark of the vintage, with fully expressive flavors of Bosc pear and red apple, which almost leans toward Calvados levels of depth. Background notes of ripe currant and red raspberry from the Pinot Noir component play against subtle exotic spices, all supported by fantastic mineral balance and textural freshness that lifts the finish on a real high note. Don’t think of Eocene isn’t simply a lesser version of Clos du Mont. This is serious stuff with its own distinct personality and purpose in the Fallet-Dart range.
94 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Champagne Buyer (Jul 2025)
Named after the geological period of the producer's vineyard, this Champagne, based on the 2009 harvest, shows maturity as well as richness. The mineral texture gives the wine a fine bite that holds everything together. Drink now.
93 points, Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (Dec 2021)
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