Based on the 2019 vintage and disgorged in February 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage, Guillaume Selosse’s NV Blanc de Noirs Largillier, as usual, derives from the same vines within the monopole of Jérôme Coessens in Aube and is made at the former Jacques Selosse cellar in Avize, which is located at street level and is considerably drier. After spending two years in barrels, with minimal topping up, the wine with its lees is then transferred for an additional year in a horizontal 28-hectoliter stainless steel tank to complement the 300 liters of historical blend (reserve). In other words, the wine is matured on its fine lees for three full years before bottling. All this effort is based on the raw material itself, as the fruit, even picked at end of harvest at high maturity, has a very low pH with a laser-like profile, hence the choice of long élevage. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of toasted nuts, dried fruit, tangerine zest and spices, it’s flamboyant and textural with a tangy line of acidity and chalky structuring extract bringing freshness to its generous profile. I must report that it’s one of the last releases of this superb cuvée. “I've understood the terroir and have decided to stop with the 2021 vintage, as I want to dedicate my full attention to Jacques Selosse and Au Dessus du Gros Mont, the plots that we own," Guillaume explains.
96 points, Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (Dec 2024)