The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Hochrain Smaragd is beautifully flinty on the nose, with an echo of smoke. The palate is immediately taut and fresh, adding salty yeast with a lovely white miso bent, making this a salty, mouthwatering pleasure. It is savory but without pepper, long and bone dry.
95 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Jun 2025)
Lush and creamy with excellent textural complexity, this quite full-bodied gruner veltliner sails over your palate like a great white Burgundy. Terrific structure, though just barely perceptible beneath the mouth-filling richness. Sustainable. Vegan. Drink or hold.
95 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2025)
Medium green yellow, silver reflections. Ripe yellow apple fruit, tobacco nuances, delicate hints of pineapple, orange zest, mineral undertones. Complex, juicy, yellow fruit on the palate, a fine touch of apricot, fine acidity, mineral and long-lasting, an elegant food wine, sure and certain ageing potential.
95 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2025)
This smoky, flinty, toasty version unveils waves of aloe, roasted agave and peach that show ample juiciness and mineral cut. Spicy pickled ginger and dry spice notes add crunch, with leesy saltiness riding out the long, winding finish, kissed with brioche. Offers good concentration and length. A beguiling wine. Drink now through 2035.
93 points, Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator (Jul 2026)
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