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B-21 Top Recommendation Read More
"In this cool end of the Wachau, this particular house style has come to a convincing apotheosis in 2023. It's really impressive but, above all, elegant."
- Anne Krebiehl,Vinous
The Hirtzberger estate is in many ways the definitive Wachau standard bearer. After all, it was the original Franz Hirtzberger who founded the Vinea Wachau classification which now sets the standards for the region's three-tier hierarchy of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. Franz the second has now served as president of the organization for going on three decades, so the family practically is Wachau in a way. And that's before we even get to their unparalleled stable of vineyard sites, all of which are simply some of the best in all of Austria.
As with many of the country's finest producers, the magnificent 2023 vintage has endowed their wines with next-level class and inspired massive accolades from across the critical sphere, highlighted by the three benchmark collectible trophies on offer below. Starting with the 100-point Singerriedl Riesling, it's a wine of "fabulous concentration, focus and finesse" that will stand for decades in any cellar full of the world's top examples. The V97 Steinporz Riesling "is a triumph" according to Krebiehl, while the "inviting and generous appeal" of the 97-point Axpoint Grüner gives fans of the variety all the quintessential character they're looking for in a reference-point expression.
We've been absolutely thrilled with what we've seen in Austria's 2023 vintage so far, and Hirtzberger's offerings stand unequivocally among the very elite of the campaign. However, quantities are limited, so collectors will want to take decisive action to secure these gems at the best pricing in the market. |
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What an astonishing interplay of beautifully ripe yellow fruit and great spicy complexity. So concentrated and succulent, yet this manages to marry a stunning textural complexity with a light-footedness that enables it to tiptoe over your palate. Then comes the spicy and stony finish that’s of dreamlike beauty. Drink or hold.
97 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2024)
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Clear herbal savouriness, yellow pome fruit nuances, tobacco nuances, a multi-faceted bouquet. Complexity, fine extracted sweetness, fine acid structure, mineral-lemon finish, very good length, piquant aftertaste, very animating, certain ageing potential.
96 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2024)
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Axpoint Smaragd was picked on deep loess in the valley. Ripe, juicy yellow apple creates the first impression on the nose. The palate then adds a touch of white miso and white pepper; all is bright, ripe, juicy fruit with that sexy smattering of pepper, beautifully soft, yet with bite. Franz Hirtzberger himself likened this, jokingly, to a "burlesque show" of a wine with its inviting and generous appeal. (Bone-dry)
94 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Jul 2024)