This new entry in our direct-import Burgundy stable is a real coup de grace, considering the wines aren't widely available in U.S. market at all. While Domaine Cordier flies under almost every radar on this side of the pond, we sought them out and paid a visit to Christophe Cordier last fall and again this fall, and the wines were revelatory on both occasions. Simply put, if you're a fan of top-notch white Burgundy that overdelivers, this domaine should be on the top of your short list.
"The 2023 Clos du Four is a beautiful example of its vineyard, offering everything you'd want from the Lafon version at nearly half the price." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
If you're an avid follower of the Mâcon and its growing reputation, you no doubt know the Clos du Four vineyard from Les Heritiérs du Comte Lafon. It's one of the most coveted sites in the appellation, so much so that Dominique Lafon sought an outright monoply of ownership and almost got it, but Christophe, who had been leasing his parcel from the previous owner for years, fought tooth and nail, ultimately securing his small plot at the top of the vineyard in sole defiance of the Lafon juggernaut. He has a certain wry sense of victory when he talks about this wine, as well he should. He knows the vines and the terroir like the back of his hand, and the result is a pure expression of a great site, made all the more singular by the miniscule parcel from which it comes. As new white Burgundy discoveries go, they don't get much better than this.
"The 2023 Vers Cras an excellent representation of a great site, from a winemaker that more Burgundy aficionados should get to know." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
Cordier's vineyard holdings comprise many of the finest sites in and around Fuissé and Vergisson, and the Vers Cras, made from 60- to 80-year-old vines, is arguably the crême de la crême of the 2023 range. Christophe's winery is an impeccably kept facility, and this wine shows that meticulous attention to detail in every facet of its personality. As Andrew describes it, "the 2023 Vers Cras 1er Cru walks a fine line between the power of Pouilly-Fuissé and the finesse of Puligny" thanks to his parcel's position on the east-facing, sloped section of the vineyard in Fuissé. As prices in the Côte d'Or keep rising out of reach of many Burgundy fans and collectors, it's great to know that expressions like this one from Cordier can deliver the goods while still being accessible to a broad audience.
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