Xavier Amirault’s 2020 Le Fondis is as unapologetically old-school and classic as Loire Cab Franc gets. This north-facing, gently sloped site had no trouble getting ripe in the warm 2020 vintage, and the wine’s ultra-suave texture and dark personality reflect that. However, that’s not to say it’s fruit-forward by any stretch. The aromas are brawny and spicy out of the gate with saddle leather, licorice, asphalt, and green peppercorn in abundance. After some air, the exceptionally deep, dark-fruited core emerges as black currant, cherry, and juniper berry, with the addition of leafy forest floor and gravelly undertones. The palate is rustic yet refined. The dark fruit core is incredibly polished, but it’s framed by raucous earthy tones of tobacco, crushed stones, cured meat, and worn leather. What really stands out are the wine’s overall balance and textural precision. For all the rusticity in the flavor profile, the tannins are as suave and measured as can be, velvety yet vibrant with precise, barely perceptible acidity lingering on the dusty, gravelly finish. If you’re a fan of Cabernet Franc with quintessential Loire heart and soul, this is your jam.
93 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Loire Buyer (Dec 2025)
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