The 2017 Viré-Clessé Cuvée Levroutée is now on the market, and it is the first time the Thevent family has been able to produce this cuvée since 2006. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, caramelized pineapple, mandarin, white flowers, pine resin and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with a layered core, racy acids and appreciable residual sweetness and structural tension, but it's already more integrated and expressive than it was last year, so it appears to be coming into its stride.
95 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Oct 2023)
The 2017 Viré-Clessé Cuvée Levroutée comes from marn soils, a parcel that is humid enough to produce botrytis only in certain years. It has a slightly petrolly bouquet of dried honey, peach skin and a touch of melted candle wax. It's still very youthful. The palate is smooth and harmonious, with a light viscosity thanks to the 16g/l residual sugar and pin-point acidity. Honey, lanolin and white pepper appear towards the finish. Very long. Superb.
94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Aug 2024)
The Thévenet family considers this its premier cru. It delivers slightly overripe fruit that brings intense complexity and structure. The aromas are concentrated, with super-ripe William pear and hints of clove, cinnamon and beeswax. The texture is rich and dense but not heavy. This is made from the part of the vineyard where the marl breaks to the surface and conserves the humidity that helps it ripen to this level. The 2017 vintage has 11 grams of residual sugar and a 3.42pH.
94 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Jan 2023)
2017 is the first time they have been able to make the Levroutée cuvée which has some botrytis since 2006. They also made a little in 2018 but not since. It only works when the timing of the fog is such that there is botrytis without any thermic or hydric stress so that the grapes are ripe and with botrytis at the right time. The 2017 has around 20% botrytis. Fullish yellow in colour. This really is gorgeous as it combines the pretty side of botrytis aromatics with a classic chardonnay heart. 15% alcohol is easy to take. Drink from 2024-2035. Tasted Mar 2024.
94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Aug 2024)