Ah, Chablis! With the wines of the Cotes du Beaune these are the greatest Chardonnay in the world. Of course, nothing is ever that easy; the vineyards are not equally blessed with exposition and soil so, broadly speaking, there are three quality and style distinctions. The commune Chablis are simpler but these days are very pleasing; a bit rounder and fruitier. The Premier Cru are wonderfully expressive wines; the fruit is more retrained and the minerality and raciness so characteristic of the region begins to grab you by your “oh, my God” button. Finally, the Grand Cru only 7% of the area’s production. Though contiguous with one another they each express a personality; much stonier, more refined but not more delicate and I would say surly.