2017 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino (750ml)

Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

B-21 Top Recommendation
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Embodying “the finest of the artisan tradition in Montalcino” according to Antonio Galloni of Vinous, the elegant 94 pt. 2017 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino boasts fresh, lively and fragrant fruit hinting of earthy spice with fleshy, layered tannins, an exquisitely crafted Brunello from a truly under the radar producer that's value priced to enjoy often over the next decade.

As part of a family of sharecropping farmers from the small village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate near the ancient volcano of Mount Amiata, winemaker Andrea Cortonesi grew up working the vineyards and olive groves in Tuscany, planting and managing vineyards for many of the region’s now famous estates and eventually learning winemaking skills from some of the region’s top enologists including legendary consultants Giulio Gambelli and Roberto Cipresso. Serving as the cellar master for Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona until 1990, Andrea convinced the estate’s owner to sell him a small parcel of their vines bordered by century old olive trees near Castelnuovo dell’Abate and produced his first 500 bottles of Uccelliera Brunello from the 1991 vintage. Spanning ten hectares including two hectares bordering Ciacci’s famous Pianrosso vineyard, Uccelliera’s sustainably farmed Sangiovese vines are planted in sandy loam soils mixed with stones and rich in crumbled fossils, situated on slopes from 150 to 350 meters above sea level that enjoy a unique microclimate protected by towering Mount Amiata and cooled during the hot summers by breezes off the nearby Orcia River. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, the bold and complex 2017 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino was aged in a mix of Slavonian and French oak barrels of various sizes for 24 months with extended bottle aging (a total of five years aging required by the DOC), yielding elegant, aromatic fruit and lush, textured tannins with a “velvety quality” that “is the enduring signature of this estate” according to the Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner.

“Without question one of the handful of top producers in Montalcino” according to critic Antonio Galloni, the impressive 94 pt. 2017 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino offers an appealing combination of affordable and delicious, handcrafted by winemaker Andrea Cortonesi to reflect its unique southern Montalcino terroir and promising years of enjoyment priced well below the region's high profile producers.

94V

94WA

92WS

Balsam herbs, cocoa and sweet white smoke give way to crushed black cherry and plum as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is elegance personified, silky, deep and round, yet delivering a core of saline-minerality that creates a savory sensation – umami, in a way – with masses of ripe red fruits and confectionary spices to contrast. The tannins are sweet and round, presenting a chiseled structure; yet it’s not forceful. This tapers off with a tart twang of sour wild berries under an air of lavender and violets. Wow; there is so much concentration and depth here, but also balance. In fact, there’s hardly a sign of this being from a difficult vintage. While I expect it will have a shorter life than an Uccelliera Brunello from a classic year, the 2017 should not be missed.

94+ points, Eric Guido, Vinous (Dec 2021)

The Uccelliera 2017 Brunello di Montalcino does a great job showcasing that extra power and brawn of the vintage and the richer textural structure of the southern side of the appellation. The bouquet is up front and beautifully measured with lots of red and purple fruit definition followed by spice, tar and earthiness. What sets this wine apart in this hot and dry vintage is the mouthfeel. It delivers fiber, flesh and soft tannins. The alcohol is a bit much at 15% in this production of 28,666 bottles.

94 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Feb 2022)

Cherry and plum fruit flavors are allied to mint, camphor and spice flavors in this dense, powerful red, which is lively and resonates on the finish with echoes of fruit, herbs and spices. Best from 2025 through 2042. 2,388 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.

92 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator (Jun 2022)

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$49.98

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