The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Quinta da Bacalhôa (the gold label) also has 10% Merlot blended in. It was aged for 13 months in French oak (one-third new, the rest used in various ages) and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Produced since 1979, winemaker Vasco Garcia called this a “SuperSetubal" (like a Super Tuscan). A fine vintage for this, it has freshness, delectable fruit and a lot of power. It is a touch rustic. The power means that it is not entirely ready to drink now, but it has the balance and the substance to age and develop even more. The winery says this can easily age 30+ years. It certainly seems built to do that, but let's be a little cautious just now in both drinking windows and rating. Today, this is wholly unevolved and needs some cellaring. It's certainly closed down hard, and closes more in the glass, and not showing all (or much) of what it has. If it does not always seem like the most classic Cab in flavor profile, it certainly seems to have upside potential.
91 points, Mark Squires, Wine Advocate (Jul 2022)
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