This year’s Apotheke Kabinett incorporates fruit from some recently acquired parcels high up in the Apotheke, which were this year’s last-harvested (in mid-October). It boasts an active sense of crystalline mineral impingement as well as greater transparency to underlying wet stone than did the corresponding village-level bottling. An infusion of mint and wintergreen into grapefruit, apple and lime makes for an impression at once cooling and soothing yet also animating and brightly refreshing. A palpable sense of density is allied to alcoholic levity, and sweetness is noticeable but entirely supportive. The finish is impressively sustained and irresistibly calls forth the next sip.
92 points, David Schildknecht, Vinous (Apr 2020)