2016 Boutari Santorini, Santorini (750ml)

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Country: Greece
Region: Aegean Islands
Sub-Region: Santorini
Grape Varietal: Assyrtiko
Review Score: 92WA
Alcohol By Volume: 13.0%

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The 2016 Santorini is unoaked and comes in at 13.1% alcohol—and a rather high (certainly higher than in the past) price point. That may be related to this news delivered: "The 2016 Santorini Boutari was supervised personally by Vasilis Georgiou throughout the winemaking process (from harvest to bottling) and consequently there were some changes in comparison to the winemaking from previous vintages. Specifically more reductive handling of grapes throughout the process to avoid oxidation problems, lower temperatures during fermentation and prolonged maturing on fine lees (five months) under low temperature (10-12 degrees Celsius). This method was also performed to keep the wine fresh until bottling and retain some of the CO2 from the end of fermentation to protect its character from oxidation." I wouldn't have bothered to relate all of that unless something seemed impressive on tasting this, for whatever reason. This seems to be the most gripping and most concentrated one in a while. It is hard to remember one that showed more pure power and a better finish. It is tightly wound and very focused. To be sure, some on the island still have more concentration, but this looks elegant rather than thin, while retaining all of its power. It is a nice step forward. It will, of course, have to age well to justify the score, but I'm leaning up on this at the moment. It should hold well at least five to seven years. Then, we'll see where we are.

92 points, Mark Squires, Wine Advocate (Issue # 232 - Aug 2017)