B-21 Top Recommendation
Bibi's father Gidon Graetz is an Israeli-born metal sculptor. His public works scattered across the globe, and exhibited in Europe and America. Gidon settled his young family in a medieval castle overlooking Florence from the northeast, in the hills of Fiesole. Filled with art and surrounded by vineyards, this castle was Bibi's childhood. A gifted young painter who's growing passion for wine ultimately became his vocation. In the late '90s Bibi refused to sell family grapes off, so began his winemaking journey. He too is now well known in both Europe and America, and beyond.
Bibi is a believer in old vines – few focus on the wisdom of old vines these days in Tuscany. Bibi seeks out old vine parcels all over Tuscany with holding including La Rufina, Panzano and further away on the Islands of Elba and Giglio, where Bibi has an 80 year old parcel producing a white wine. While most wineries have uprooted old vines and replanted with higher density with new clones, Bibi disagrees. His split with modern practices widens – employing indigenous yeasts, using minimal sulfur, and very little new oak, natural and sustainable viticulture – resulting in wines that harken to another time.
Testamatta is made primarily from a small plot of 60-year-old vines near Bibi's tiny winery next to the family's castle and pure Sangiovese. Some have compared Bibi's Testamatta to Grand Cru Burgundy, wine of finesse and nuance with complex aromatics. 2015 is a exceptional vintage in Tuscany, so no surprise that Testamatta is at its finest and certainly a great time to get acquainted if you have not tasted Bibi's wines. Testamattta is a most personal, iconoclastic, magical expression that should be experienced. Note the label is Bibi – recall he is a great artist, too.
A very beautiful and thoughtful Testamatta with aromas of earth, terra cotta, black tea, and lavender. Full-bodied, very layered and extremely polished with superb, soft tannins. Racy and very long. Muscular and formed but very, very balanced. Gorgeous richness and depth. Shows balance and wonder. Try in 2020.
98 points, James Suckling (Dec 2018)
This wine will be released in March 2019. The 2016 Testamatta represents a blend of fruit from old vines spread across the various vineyard holdings farmed by Bibi Graetz in both the Siena and Firenze provinces of Tuscany. These holdings include plots in Vincigliata (home base to Bibi Graetz and his family just outside of Florence), Lamole, Londa, Montefili and Siena. Many of the vines used here are 80 years old or more, and each site represents a cultural and enological patrimony that was specifically selected for its individual character or uniqueness. There is an unescapable metaphor in the many primary colors that blend or bleed into each other to form a single piece of art that is depicted on the front label of this handsome bottle. Testamatta reaches impeccable harmony in similar fashion. I tasted this wine on three separate occasions and was blown away each time. There is a seductively wild side to the wine that comes forth with chiseled intensity. Dark fruit, spice, tar, licorice and toasted spice make for a beautifully elegant bouquet. The mouthfeel remains mid-weight in approach, with polished tannins and a tightly knit texture that should relax and grow in volume as the wine evolves in the bottle. Some 60,000 bottles were made.
96 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Issue # Interim - Sep 2018)