Six years on the lees before disgorgement has produced a Champagne that is just approaching perfect maturity. It is dry but that dryness has now softened with the developing nuttiness. This wine, developed as a collaboration with designer Philippe Starck, is now ready to drink.
94 points, Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (Dec 2020)
Coming after 2006 and 2009, this is the third vintage of Roederer’s Brut Nature, a wine Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon makes in collaboration with Philippe Starck. Its production is determined by the years when pinot noir, meunier and chardonnay ripen at the same time, so they can be harvested together and cofermented. It grows in the clay soils of Cumières, what Lécaillon describes as “the dark side,” a contrast to the chalk terroirs that provide Cristal. The 2012 starts out with earth tones, scents of mushrooms and dark spice. And like prior vintages of this wine, it keeps gaining complexity with each successive day open. From a tough and powerful structure, it turns luscious, generous, its flavors of white nectarine carried with a youthfully staccato energy. It’s a wine to decant, or to cellar.
94 points, Wine & Spirits (Dec 2020)
This has a very fresh and pure, lemony nose and is completely mouth-filling. Then it freshens and composes and takes a fine, flinty, acidity-chiseled and dry ride to the finish. Super refreshing and saline. From biodynamically grown grapes – 55% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 20% pinot meunier. Drink or hold.
94 points, James Suckling (Sep 2019)
The 2012 Brut Nature is showing beautifully, bursting from the glass with an expressive bouquet of lemon oil, crisp green apple, wheat toast, hazelnuts and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with its generous core of concentrated and delicately sun-kissed fruit girdled by brisk acids and undeniable mineral grip and complemented by a delicate pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a saline finish, this lovely wine is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay, reflecting its origins in Cumières.
93 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Issue # 248 - Apr 2020)
First made in 2006, the 2012 Starck Brut Nature offers a ripe, sexy bouquet of green apples, green almonds, white flowers, and chalky minerality. It has bright acidity, medium to full body, terrific balance, and a clean, lengthy finish. A blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier, and the rest Chardonnay, it’s going to evolve gracefully for 10-15 years.
93 points, Jeb Dunnuck (Jul 2020)
This finely knit Champagne crackles with mouthwatering acidity, while the satiny mousse swathes the palate, carrying flavors of crunchy pear, rich grilled nut, white cherry and a touch of honeycomb. Long and creamy on the minerally, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2032.
92 points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator (Dec 2020)