I tasted a bottle of the 1990 Branco Vinhas Velhas, yes 1990—that's not a mistake; they are selling it now! The 1991 was not sold in its youth because the wine had sooo much acidity. Much later they sold it and then they discovered they had not sold the 1990 either... It was because the wine was filtered with bentonite and got cloudy, so he didn't sell it! And it remained in the winery until now! It's of course a blend of different old vines, as its name implies. The wine has an amber color and a magnificent and complex nose that mixes notes of honey, pollen, beeswax, marzipan and yellow flowers. It has very limited oxidation for its age; for some reason, it kept more of the proteins that protected it from oxidation. As a reference point, I also tried a bottle of the 1991. The 1990 was a mixture of Bical from limestone soils, Cercial, Maria Gomes and Sercialinho. The 1991 was all from sandy soils, and it is different, more balsamic and with higher acidity. You notice the Cercial in the palate. This is a monumental white close to 35 years of age! And it should still continue for a few more years. It has a moderate 11% alcohol and around five grams of acidity. 6,000 bottles were produced, but they still have 4,000! It has been in bottle since February 1991.
95 points, Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (Dec 2024)
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