If 30 years is a generation then Matsu has three. Great news for me hearing middle age is 100! Knew I liked this project of old vines; 70, 100 and 130 years. Hard to believe anyone really knows how old some vines are, but somebody's grandfather had to have planted them, and that's just how they relate to the vines. No surprise how the wines are named. El Picaro - the rascal - 70 year vines, El Recio - middle aged man - 100 year vines, and El Viejo - Old man -130 year old vines. Would be a gimmick if it wasn't the real deal staring at you. Heard of or tasted Numanthia or Termes from Toro? Toro is the wild west of Spain; arid, windy, remote. Matsu project has three perspectives to relate to the Toro region and the grape Tinto del Toro, aka Tempranillo. 2011 Picaro is a excellent example of pure and authentic Toro. There is a rustic element to Toro that makes it unique. A touch of savage found in the Rhone, say Vacqueyras, and yet the wine is vivid and bright, coming in part from the diurnal temperature changes. High altitude and cooler temps gives the wines energy, vibrance. That’s Toro. El Picaro brings such signature of Toro that it’s a must buy (92RAS, 95GPS, it really says where it comes from). 2009 El Recio is a bigger wine, more oak influenced and add 30 years of vine age and you get more concentration, deeper colors and a bigger wine (92RAS). 2009 El Viejo adds another 30 years vine age and a longer time in oak and an even more massive wine emerges (93RAS). There is something at Matsu for all ages.
Bob Sprentall, B-21 Proprietor