French single-malt whisky might be the most underappreciated sub-category out there, but it’s understandable. After the wine, you have the Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, etc., so it’s no surprise that the country’s whisky gets lost in the background. That being said, these Version Française bottlings deserve some attention. This particular batch from Ninkasi, the famed Lyonnaise brewery/distillery, is a perfect example of how the French single-malt category occupies its own stylistic idiom. It’s not Scotch, it’s not bourbon, and it’s not trying to be anything other than what it is. Distilled from fine Pilsen grains on a Charentaise pot still and aged for six years in ex-Cognac casks, this 2017 batch is a full-on beauty, starting with the vibrant, medium gold color. The nose is a gorgeous, well-defined bouquet of citrus blossom, lemon oil, tart green apple, almond paste, fresh choux pastry, walnut skin, and soft wood tones. The medium-weight palate sports a racy texture and bright, balanced flavors of lemon peel, lemon ice, pine oil, pistachio ice cream, thyme, and a high-toned minerality that carries through a long, exceptionally vibrant finish. It’s a distinctive single-malt with outstanding charm, grace, and approachability.
93 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (Apr 2026)
Top Quality Store
