As part of the Dewar’s stable, we hardly ever see Macduff under its own name (although Dewar’s does bottle a branded single malt exclusively from the facility). As Highland malts go, MacDuff flies under the radar for obvious reasons, but the independent bottlings on the market are often full of character and intrigue. This three-cask run of ex-Sherry butts is just so. With a robust nose right out of the gate, the 12 Year opens with sawdust, red cherry, and root beer on a foundation of sweet malt. Just a tinge of heat, but nothing untoward. The palate is very engaging all the way through. The first sip indicates it might be a bit of a bruiser, but the second sip opens up into flavors centered on cinnamon, baked apples, and brown sugar with some flashes of burning pipe tobacco in the background. I was a bit surprised by how quickly the texture evened out with commendable weight and round balance. After time in the glass, the aromas take on a light toasty edge and gain full complexity, with nutmeg, red hot candies, cinnamon sugar cookie, and chocolate covered espresso bean bringing some welcome nuance. Time does a number on the flavors as well, as that broad, round texture gives space for more pronounced fruit character such as red plum, currant, and pepper jam, with white and green peppercorns joining in. That roundness carries through the finish, supported by mild warmth that brings everything into focus. It’s a marvelous marriage of MacDuff’s signature Highland malt with top-quality sherry butt, for a truly thought-provoking dram that’s also just plain delicious.
92 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (Mar 2025)
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