Offerings like this one from Ron Abuelo clearly show that Panama’s best expressions ought to be taken seriously. A nod to the Varela family estate’s centenary anniversary, the solera-style Centuria is a showpiece of luxury and class in every way. The medium mahogany color introduces a very sophisticated nose with everything in its proper place. Cooked pineapple, cooked bananas, and clove lead the way with gentle heat. With aeration comes a wealth of confectionary complexity – turbinado sugar, coconut cake filling, candied orange, and apple fritter or bear claw (call it what you will). Finally, a touch of intrigue comes in hints of warm wood furniture, amaro, and coffee liqueur. The palate really showcases the character of its high-aged components in its velvety smooth texture and fantastic balance. Medium-full weight with mouth-coating flavors of chocolate custard, clove, Chinese five spice, it’s a heady, layered profile that demands your attention. Touches of burnt toffee, charred citrus, and the sweet baked goods from the nose all come into play, while the finish draws out across the entire palate with notes of amaro, shortcake, and sarsaparilla. We’ve been on a roll lately with some killer single casks, but the Centuria is an undeniable testament to the world-class pleasure that comes with artfully blended, aged rums.
94 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (Jun 2025)
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