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"... a true Côte des Blancs star in the making." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Champagne Buyer
Just when we think that all the great wines in the Côte de Blancs have been discovered, we stumble on a small, 4-hectare domaine, single-handedly run by one of the most genial winemakers in the region. Our Champagne team visited Laurent Vauversin last October and found a quiet, unassuming winemaker who seemed almost unaware of just how good his wines are, in a village dotted with world-famous names, no less. As the fourth generation of his family to steward the domaine, he's also incredibly devoted to his roots, evident in the many old family pictures of his forebears that line his cellar walls. Laurent is basically a one-man show, and his small but impressive vineyard holdings are exemplary of Côte de Blancs terroir.
The NV Ordage Grand Cru is his solera-style perpetual reserve, begun in 2014 and containing vintages up to 2024. Laurent first vinifies parcel selections in 600-liter barrels then blends that component into previous vintages in 25hL casks for aging. Each year, one-third of the blend is pulled off for bottling. The Ordage is a quintessential perpetual reserve showcasing an exquisite contrast between its older and younger components, "wonderfully vinous in its complexity and depth," with pure Oger chalk underneath all that head-turning complexity. "Power and precision combine in exhilarating fashion in this expertly crafted wine," our Champagne buyer Andrew Kitz declares.
The NV Original Grand Cru Oger, based on the exceptionally sunny 2022 vintage, is a classic expression of the domaine's prized holdings in this famed heart of Chardonnay Champagne. The base vintage is reflecting beautifully in the bright, effusive aromatic profile that's bolstered by just a hint of toasty lees. "The palate is full of cut and verve as the fruits echo the nose ... while the bracing chalk foundation comes through clear as a bell," explains Andrew. Grand Cru grower Champagne continues to be one of the hottest and most dynamic categories in wine, and it never ceases to amaze us when we can get our hands on an artisanal example such as this for under $50.
We are thrilled to have Laurent in our direct-import stable, and the Ordage is just the first glimpse at what's to come from this very talented yet under-the-radar winemaker that every Champagne fan should get to know. |