"Roger Coulon remains one of the under-the-radar names in Champagne ... I find a purity in these Champagnes that is hard to fully describe with words. It’s a sort of transparency - an expression of vintage, variety and place - that is both singular and compelling." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous
We can't overstate our great fortune to have struck up a direct-import relationship with Roger Coulon, a reference-point domaine for the wines of the Vrigny cru on the Montagne de Reims. Their wines have a solid insider following in the United States, and when the opportunity to go domaine-direct came along, there was no question what to do. At our recent visit, the young, forward-thinking winemaker Edgar Coulon showcased an entire range full of superb offerings, four of which are now in stock at B-21.
Leading off, the 1er Cru Heri-Hodie Extra Brut is beautifully expressive and graceful in its 100% Meunier character, with absolutely no oxidative edges, despite being made from a solera started in 1995! The 94-point 1er Cru L'Hommée, from the excellent base year 2020, showcases Edgar's expert touch with Chardonnay in its subtle, understated, yet ultimately charming style. "A beautiful vein of freshness pervades this and makes it shine from the inside out. Impressive depth and concentration," notes Antonio Galloni. Offering up a kaleidoscope of all three varietals, the 1er Cru Esprit de Vrigny, based on the equally excellent 2019 vintage, is "medium-bodied, [with] a pillowy mousse with a silky texture and a salty, savory, mouthwatering finish with good length," per Jeb Dunnuck's 94-point review.
The crown jewel, however, is the remarkable 2014 vintage cuvée. "Coulon's vintage bottling straddles a fine line between evolution and vitality. Few producers are taking the Vrigny terroir to such heights," notes B-21 Champagne Buyer Andrew Kitz. The 2014 Millésime Blanc de Noirs also carries a trio of outstanding critical reviews led by 96 points from Vinous' Anne Krebiehl, who lauds it as "a rounded, profound wine ... sleek yet so grounded." It's a fantastic example of how well the two distinct terroirs of this 1er Cru play together, with the Pinot Noir from the clay loam soils of Vrigny and the ungrafted Meunier from the sandier soils of neighboring Gueux both merging in a thrilling, tightrope balance of expression. The structure of the under-the-radar, excellent 2014 vintage puts everything in its proper place and endows the wine with the substance to continue its evolution for many years. This is one the great scores of the year so far in collectible Champagne.
For anyone serious about great grower Champagne, Roger Coulon's wines should be top of the list for your next discoveries. Simply put, they're a quiet force to be reckoned with.
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