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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Crafted by artisan producer and B-21 favorite Pascal Agrapart in the chalky Cote des Blancs, Champagne Agrapart has enjoyed an under the radar reputation, but with the release of these highly rated 2023 cuvees, that's about to change. From one of the top grower-producers in the region, these selections from Agrapart offer a rare taste of meticulously crafted, terroir-driven Champagne at a remarkable value that's bound to sell out in a flash.
Now run by the fourth consecutive generation, Agrapart ranks at the top echelons of Champagne, earning a 3-star rating in the Revue de Vin du France alongside only 7 other houses, including Krug. Planted almost entirely with Chardonnay with a few small plots of Pinot Noir, the ten-hectare Agrapart Domaine comprises more than 70 small parcels predominantly in the Grand Cru villages of Avize, Cramant, Oiry, and Oger with a few Premier Cru plots on the Cote de Blancs, boasting low yielding vines averaging over 40 years of age with the oldest over 70 years. Taking the reins of his family's historic estate in Avize over four decades ago, Pascal works the soils manually while employing organic practices, tilling with horses to ensure his soils do not get compacted (one of his parcels is worked by and named for his horse Venus). Fermenting the base wines exclusively with native yeasts which he believes is critical to expressing the terroir, Pascal employs a mix of older barrels dependent on the cuvee and longer than required bottle aging on the lees, yielding gorgeous, pure fruit impeccably balanced with chalky minerality that finishes long, each cuvee uniquely identified with a different colored plaque (i.e., the round metal disk on top of the cork).
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Terroirs Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV is an assemblage of four Côte de Blancs Grand Cru cuvées from old vine plantings in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry. This Terroirs is 40% from the 2018 and 2019 vintages and fermented in stainless steel, with 60% reserve wine kept in oak, aged 36 to 40 months on lees and finished with a four gram per liter dosage. Complex and redolent of Meyer lemon curd, crushed stone, butter pastry, almond nougat and honeysuckle, the medium-bodied palate has an electrified, silky acid energy flowing through a richly textured, citrusy mid-palate with a soft chalky grip. Beautifully layered, refreshing and balanced throughout, the finish goes on and on.
95+ points, Sarah Mayo, Wine Independent (Nov 2023)
The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Terroirs is an excellent introduction to the estate’s Chardonnays. Disgorged in August 2024 with three grams per liter dosage, it’s composed of 20% from the 2021 vintage (vinified in tank), 50% from 2020 and 30% from 2019, with half of the reserve wines aged on the lees in approximately 30-year-old demi-muids. Heavily based on Oger (around 40% of the blend), with the remainder coming from Oiry, Cramant and Avize, it’s already expressive, offering aromas of honeysuckle, nectarine, bread and fresh hazelnut. Medium to full-bodied with bright acidity and complemented by a pillowy mousse, it concludes with a long, sapid finish.
93 points, Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (Dec 2024)
The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Cru is another terrific wine in the lineup this year. Chalk, white pepper, sage and mint meld into a core of lemon peel and crushed rocks. All the elements are so well balanced. An equal blend of 2019 and 2018 juice from 100% Grand Cru sites in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry, the Terroirs saw natural fermentation and 100% malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: June, 2023.
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Nov 2023)
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