The current release of Aurélien Laherte’s non-vintage Ultradition Extra Brut is from the base year of 2021 and was disgorged in October of 2024. The cépages this year is sixty percent pinot meunier, thirty percent chardonnay and ten percent pinot noir, with eighty percent of the vins clairs having been barrel-fermented in a combination of foudres and Burgundy barrels. Interestingly, not all of the vins clairs went through malolactic fermentation for this wine. It was finished with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter. The wine offers up lovely aromatics in its blend of apple, peach, fresh-baked bread, chalky soil tones, nutskin, a touch of meunier delicate floral tones and a lovely, gentle framing of buttery oak. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and very nicely balanced, with a good core of fruit, fine soil undertow, elegant mousse and a long, complex and quite dry, but not austere finish. This is a very good non-vintage wine that will age very gracefully.
92 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar (Feb 2026)
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