The 20 Year Old Grands Assemblages from Darroze is properly energetic and still youthful, while showcasing intermittent glimmers of maturity. The wood is very well integrated on the nose without being the dominant element, leaving way for mulled orange, overripe banana, cooked apple, jelly donut filling, and cherry cordial. That fruity core is accented by charming undertones of toffee, vanilla, orange biscotti, and sandalwood. The wood is more robust on the palate, where the medium weight and textural grip support flavors of chestnut, nutmeg, more vanilla, and walnut paste. The fruit is less a factor there, but the mid-palate gives a really nice burst of pear Williams and tart orange that segue to a medium-long finish that offers light tobacco and a nice lift of medicinal herbs. This would make one outstanding high-end cocktail.
93 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (Sep 2026)