Initial whiffs detect an alluring road tar/asphalt, licorice-like sweetness; aeration expands the bouquet by including smoky scents of cigarette ash, tobacco and vanilla bean. Palate entry is sweet, nearly maple-like and viscous; by midpalate, the sweetness turns intensely bitter, bean- and sap-like. Concludes sweet in the throat.
85-89 points, Wine Enthusiast (May 2004)