The hottest sub-category of agave distillate is undoubtedly Pechuga, and this one from Delfino Tobon Meija is a stunner. Made from Agave cupreata, known as Papalote around Puebla and northern Oaxaca, this pechuga is distilled with a freshly slaughtered chicken from Delfino’s back yard doused in mole poblano suspended in the boiling pot. As you’d expect, this Pechuga is a veritable bomb of savory, meaty goodness right out of the gate. The nose is all roasted sweet peppers and poblanos at first (of course), with the tell-tale red mole complexity, coffee bean, and roasted meat character offering the hardcore Pechuga fan everything they’re looking for. But it’s not all barbecue pit. Time and air bring out everything from luxurious dark toffee to melon, eventually showing unexpected subtleties like sweet grass, chamomile and petrol. The palate is pretty hot at first, so definitely give it patience, after which the initially viscous texture settles out to something more balanced, still mouth-coating but also, dare I say, elegant. Classic Papalote in its rich yet textured feel. The flavor profile starts off super intense and stays that way, so buckle up. Sweet and pickled peppers at first, with bitter cacao nibs, spicy rather than sweet agave, and more of that red mole in the form of canela stick, dried anchos, and even touches of tropical fruit. The finish is a lengthy amalgam of petrol, fine minerality, and smoky game on a tightrope dance of weight and energy. Delfino is absolutely nailing the style, and it’s no wonder this expression has developed such an avid legion of fans.
95 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (May 2025)
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