Alberto Martinez and his son-in-law Reynaldo are masters of the clay-pot distillation tradition in Oaxaca’s mountainous village of Santa Catarina Albarradas. They made this batch of the Espandin Capón from a miniscule harvest of just 34 agaves treated to the capón technique, which involves cutting off the quiote or stalk of the agave once it has sprouted and allowing it to sit in the field for just shy of a year. The result is a remarkable concentration of sugars that lends the finished product its signature character. Fermented in concrete tanks and stabilized with nitrogen-rich tepehuaje (a local tree bark) and spring water (a necessity at the cold temperature at altitude), the spirit is classically emblematic of the mezcal ancestrale method. The initial aromatics are beautifully high-toned, full of sweetly styled yet balanced agave character. Pure ginger root, lemon oil, jasmine oil, pine resin, and ripe green apple take center stage. It’s hot at first so give it plenty of air, which allows for a variety of complex nuances to emerge, including cinnamon, blueberry, and raspberry leaf all backed up very subtle, fine smoke. The palate is a real tour de force, with the hallmark viscosity and density of the clay pot distillate, almost colloidal in texture. An intense burst of smoke leads, with stony minerality, gunflint, and a fair amount of heat. After that blows off, it remains super intense and weighty but somehow even more focused, with flavors of citrus candy, mint, and dark fruits (more blueberry and black currant), plus some subtle spicy touches of cardamom and cumin seed. It’s ultra-traditional destilado de agave from a true artisan of the craft.
93 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Spirits Buyer (May 2025)
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