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B-21 Top Recommendation
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The Hirtzberger estate is in many ways the definitive Wachau standard bearer. After all, it was the original Franz Hirtzberger who founded the Vinea Wachau classification which now sets the standards for the region's three-tier hierarchy of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. Franz the second has now served as president of the organization for going on three decades, so the family practically is Wachau in a way. And that's before we even get to their unparalleled stable of vineyard sites, all of which are simply some of the best in all of Austria.
The 2024 vintage was not without its challenges, but the ever-meticulous Hirtzberger made another set of truly outstanding wines, highlighted by a double 100-point expression of the legendary Riesling Ried Singerriedl, which "shows perfect harmony" in its "incredibly vivid and bold" personality. The 2024 Gruner Veltliner Honivogl is itself another sterling rendition flirting with perfection in its "powerful, elegant, silky texture, fine fruit sweetness, [and] finesse-rich structure." Finally, don't miss the 98-point Riesling Ried Steinporz from a sheltered site set off the Danube, which produces a wine of "direction, freshness, and structure" with "lots of energy." Of course, these are just the highlights, but every wine in the roster below is a top performer in the category.
We're seriously impressed so far with what we've seen in Austria's 2024 vintage, and Hirtzberger's offerings stand unequivocally among the very elite of the campaign. However, quantities are limited, so collectors will want to take decisive action to secure these gems at the best pricing in the market. |
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Pale golden yellow, silver reflections. Delicate yellow tropical fruit, a hint of pineapple and mango, nuances of meadow herbs, a hint of orange blossom. Juicy, charming and elegant, a very approachable wine as always, fine acidity structure, balanced and already very accessible.
96 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2025)
Real power simmers underneath this inviting version, with beautiful range to its notes of juicy stone fruit, pickled ginger, dried flowers and warm lentil on a streamlined frame. There’s briny cut to the full-bodied, round palate, which hums with salty energy that promises a long life ahead. Drink now through 2040.
95 points, Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator (Jul 2026)
Poached pears, yellow flowers, lemon curd and light hints of caramel in this enveloping white. It's full-bodied, creamy and expansive, with yellow fruit. Then comes stony, minerally freshness to drive the finish. Drink or hold.
95 points, Claire Nesbitt, James Suckling (Sep 2025)
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