B-21 Top Recommendation
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"Wagner-Stempel now plays in the top league of dry German wine ... The 2023 Riesling collection is outstanding." - Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
The Rheinhessen is the largest region in Germany, so when a producer stands out as one of the very best here, they really stand out, and that's certainly the case with Wagner-Stempel. Winemaker Daniel Wagner is one of the region's most accomplished, but the estate is still under the radar on the global scene. Nonetheless, these are some of the most exquisite and artfully crafted dry Rieslings in Germany, and the 2023 vintage gave Daniel plenty of great material to flash his mettle.
The estate's crown jewels are unquestionably the renowned Grosses Gewächs (or "grand cru") vineyards of Höllberg and Heerkretz, each of which turned out a stunning expression in 2023 with superlative accolades from Vinous' Anne Krebiehl and James Suckling's Riesling critic, Stuart Pigott. The 97-point Höllberg GG offers up a masterclass in terroir with its "astonishing aromas" and its "fluid, slender, full-fruited, even exuberant stoniness." The 98-point Heerkretz GG is an equally masterful achievement of "extraordinary beauty ... with a combination of coolness and gracefulness that’s extremely rare in the world of dry riesling, or anywhere else." Finally, if you want a glimpse of the spectacular style of the estate and these two exceptional vineyards without having to open one of the GGs before it's ready, dive right into the 2023 Estate Riesling, a 94-point gem made from the younger vines of Heerkretz and Höllberg. "So amazingly fresh and delicate, so sleek and filigreed," it's a profound expression and an unbeatable value all in one sub-$20 package.
Dry German Riesling is certainly having its moment in the limelight, and these "crystalline, supremely aromatic and taut" examples give fans of the category all that they're looking for. | 
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