"Based on this showing, Veyder-Malberg is indeed as mad and as genius as they say he is." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Austria Buyer
You may not know Peter Veyder-Malberg, but among Austrian wine insiders, he's one of the most iconoclastic, not to mention talented, winemakers in the Wachau. His wines don't get nearly the wider attention that they deserve thanks to his general aversion to having them reviewed professionally (he's not a fan of tagging an arbitrary number onto his wines), so in order to get an idea of how truly special they are, you have to taste them yourself, and that's what B-21 Austria buyer Andrew Kitz recently did with the exceptional 2023s.
Based in the Spitzer Graben, a narrow side valley of the Wachau with a decidedly cooler microclimate, Veyder-Malberg has been marching to the beat of his own drummer since the beginning, and the results are in a class all their own, starting with his "entry-level" Grüner Veltliner Liebedich. Sourced from many of Wachau's most prized sites, including Loibenberg and Hochrain, it's "a quintessential example of Austria's most famous native grape in every way ... a layered, textured expression that Austrian wine fans shouldn't miss."
His true genius, however, shines in his single-vineyard wines, like the 2023 Grüner Veltliner Hochrain. Andrew describes a 95-point expression with aromas of "pure, shimmering minerality" and a palate that's "achingly elegant and precise ... a study in restrained intensity and ethereal elegance." Likewise, the 96-point 2023 Riesling Bruck is a remarkable, singular style that could only come from a winemaker like Veyder-Malberg. "Peter Veyder-Malberg's 2023 Riesling Bruck is simply stunning. Like his other wines, it demands time, it demands proper temperature, and it demands attention. When all three conditions are met, you're rewarded with a Riesling of absolutely beguiling delicacy, shimmering personality, and generally jaw-dropping finesse."
It bears noting that these are not wines for immediate gratification. They are intellectual to say the least, and the 2023s at the moment are very primary, so patient collectors can confidently stock up knowing there is some tremendous evolution in store. If you're a fan of truly world-class Austrian wines, you need to jump on the Veyder-Malberg train without hesitation.
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