Peter Veyder-Malberg’s 2023 Riesling Bruck is simply stunning. Like his other wines, it demands time, it demands proper temperature, and it demands attention. When all three conditions are met, you’re rewarded with a Riesling of absolutely beguiling delicacy, shimmering personality, and generally jaw-dropping finesse. The Bruck is cool and shy at first, but as it airs out, the mica-schist bedrock and 350m elevation show their stuff. An incredible core of head-turning, perfumed floral aromas and crystal-clear minerality defies description, with secondary notes of kaffir lime leaf, lilies, and cardamom spice eventually coming out. The filigreed, laser-precise palate is a thing of almost surreal beauty, completely enthralling yet weightless in feel and texture. Again, the nascent complexity is really something to get lost in – if you pay attention to it. More crystalline minerality is the foundation for soaring, high-note floral flavors like iris, honeysuckle, and geranium. The fruit is almost an afterthought, but notes of melon rind, lime zest, and yuzu are integrated so well into all the mineral/floral complexity, but they really pop on the medium-length finish. I will admit, it was so light and delicate at first that I didn’t know what to think, but it quickly blossomed into one of the most intriguing Austrian Rieslings I’ve had in a while. Based on this showing, Veyder-Malberg is indeed as mad and as genius as they say he is.
96 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Austria Buyer (Dec 2025)
Top Quality Store
