This delightful yellow-green wine boasts a complex aroma with hints of nectarine, kiwi and a salty mineral edge. Billaud explains that the high proportion of active calcium in the soil delivers a rich level of extract, but the texture is lively with crisp acidity. The grapes are from three parcels totalling 0.60ha; the oldest are 85 years old. Billaud uses the same techniques here as for his grands crus: 80% tank, 20% 500L barrels; 18 months' total maturation. This is a profound wine that will last at least 20 years.
94 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Oct 2024)
The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is a tensile, incisive wine that opens in the glass with notes of orange peel, beeswax and gooseberry mingled with oyster juice. Medium- to full-bodied, it is taut and precise, with a tightly coiled core and a mouthwatering, saline-tinged finish.
92 points, Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (Jan 2026)
The 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru underwent partial wood aging and was bottled in May 2025. This sports a clever, subtle reduction on the nose that releases energy into the aromatics. The palate is well defined with gentle grip and more depth than the Les Fourneaux. This is a little flinty in style, with quite the persistent finish. The 2023 has great potential.
92 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jul 2025)
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