This delightful yellow-green wine boasts a complex aroma with hints of nectarine, kiwi and a salty mineral edge. Billaud explains that the high proportion of active calcium in the soil delivers a rich level of extract, but the texture is lively with crisp acidity. The grapes are from three parcels totalling 0.60ha; the oldest are 85 years old. Billaud uses the same techniques here as for his grands crus: 80% tank, 20% 500L barrels; 18 months' total maturation. This is a profound wine that will last at least 20 years.
94 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Oct 2024)
The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is a tensile, incisive wine that opens in the glass with notes of orange peel, beeswax and gooseberry mingled with oyster juice. Medium- to full-bodied, it is taut and precise, with a tightly coiled core and a mouthwatering, saline-tinged finish.
92 points, Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate (Jan 2026)
The 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru underwent partial wood aging and was bottled in May 2025. This sports a clever, subtle reduction on the nose that releases energy into the aromatics. The palate is well defined with gentle grip and more depth than the Les Fourneaux. This is a little flinty in style, with quite the persistent finish. The 2023 has great potential.
92 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jul 2025)
Just bottled in May, with the Grands Crus. The Mont de Milieu spent one year 80% in wood and 20% in tank, then six months assembled in tank on fine lees. A refined succulence, white fruit with only a hint of peach, nothing exotic, classical tension at the back, the little bitters which the late Jean-Louis Subtil liked so much. Crunchy and delicious.
92 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Dec 2025)
This is at once markedly ripe yet super-fresh with its lightly exotic array of white peach, pear and lemon-lime confit that reflects just enough Chablis character to remind you where this is from. There is once again fine mid-palate density to the solidly powerful mineral-driven flavors that display fine length on the balanced finale that is not especially dry or austere. This harmonious and already nicely complex effort should easily repay up to a decade of keeping. *Outstanding*
91 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound (Oct 2025)
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