"Wilhelm Weil presented a stunning 2023 vintage–hair-raising even. The dry Rieslings are utterly clear and brilliant while brimming with fruit. The off-dry and sweet wines have electric, spectacular acidity, giving them even more definition than usual, heightening every nuance of flavor and assuring longevity." - Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Weingut Robert Weil is one of the top three undisputed reference-points for the Rheingau, and we're not surprised to see them turn in some of the most acclaimed wines of the vintage throughout their entire range. Of course the entry-level wines are top-tier performers in their categories, as seen in the 94-point Rheingau Kabinett and the JS92 Estate Trocken.
The Grafenberg vineyard is the crown jewel and easily one of the greatest Riesling sites in the world, with deep slate soils over mica-quarz phyllite bedrock, so the wines are always inclined toward exuberant fruit and firm mineral backbone, along with generous yet precise textures, no matter the style being made. In 2023, the site shines on every level, starting with the 98-point 2023 Grafenberg Grosses Gewächs, which Wine Advocate's Stephan Reinhardt calls "a dense, powerful and majestic yet also finessed Gräfenberg" that exemplifies how majestic dry Riesling can be. Moving to the prädikat wines, the double 97-point 2023 Grafenberg Spätlese is "simply exquisite, simply beautiful, thrilling and oh so pure ... a glorious wine" per Anne Krebiehl, while Stuart Pigott dubs it "a giant Spätlese, but in terms of depth and expression, not in sheer volume or density."
The 2023 Auslesen are on another level altogether and represent some of the best wines of the vintage, anywhere. The double 99-point 2023 Grafenberg Auslese is "a glorious wine of utter purity, brilliance, concentration and incredible lightness ... a Riesling that will outlast us all." The ne plus ultra, however, is the 2023 Grafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese. It will undoubtedly stand as a generational wine at the pinnacle of its category, with multiple 100-point scores already and near perfection from others. "An elixir of the utmost purity-a superlative," it's a nearly immortal creation, "highly finessed yet not made for this life or the next ... [but] for the future that is not ours anymore," as Reinhardt so poetically puts it.
You don't have to be a German wine fan to understand the specific greatness on offer in this set. If you're a collector of the world's greatest long-term cellar propositions, period, then every one of these spectacular treasures should be on your shortlist.
The 2023 Riesling Rheingau Kabinett was picked in the Kiedricher Wasseros and made from whole-bunch-pressed juice. Weil emphasizes that they want "restricted" sugar levels of around 35 g/L with "hearty" acidity. The nose is a vivid and enticing mix of pineapple and lime, still swinging with a touch of yeast, aromatic and tangy. The palate brims with juicy sweetness, dances with light and agile steps and delivers what we want from a Kabinett—ease and joy. The entire experience is scented with lemon balm and summer blossom. Simply lovely. (Off-dry)
94 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Oct 2024)
Wonderful floral, nectarine and mandarin orange aromas pour from the glass. Simultaneously juicy and sleek on the barely medium-bodied palate, this is so vivid and charming, but also has stacks of mineral freshness in the long, orangey finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
93 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Mar 2024)
No ordinary Rheingau Kabinett, this Riesling comes from cooler, higher-elevation parcels adjacent to the estate’s classified single-vineyard sites and fruit from pre-selections in the top estate sites. A delicately balanced Kabinett, this Weil bottling offers sweet peach and ripe pineapple aromatics lifted by a sea breeze. The palate is gloriously dialled in as sweet, ripe pineapple dances effortlessly with a saline minerality and crushed wet stone.
93 points, Clive Pursehouse, Decanter (Dec 2024)
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