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B-21 Top Recommendation
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"Wilhelm Weil presented a stunning 2023 vintage–hair-raising even. The dry Rieslings are utterly clear and brilliant while brimming with fruit. The off-dry and sweet wines have electric, spectacular acidity, giving them even more definition than usual, heightening every nuance of flavor and assuring longevity." - Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Weingut Robert Weil is one of the top three undisputed reference-points for the Rheingau, and we're not surprised to see them turn in some of the most acclaimed wines of the vintage throughout their entire range. Of course the entry-level wines are top-tier performers in their categories, as seen in the 94-point Rheingau Kabinett and the JS92 Estate Trocken.
The Grafenberg vineyard is the crown jewel and easily one of the greatest Riesling sites in the world, with deep slate soils over mica-quarz phyllite bedrock, so the wines are always inclined toward exuberant fruit and firm mineral backbone, along with generous yet precise textures, no matter the style being made. In 2023, the site shines on every level, starting with the 98-point 2023 Grafenberg Grosses Gewächs, which Wine Advocate's Stephan Reinhardt calls "a dense, powerful and majestic yet also finessed Gräfenberg" that exemplifies how majestic dry Riesling can be. Moving to the prädikat wines, the double 97-point 2023 Grafenberg Spätlese is "simply exquisite, simply beautiful, thrilling and oh so pure ... a glorious wine" per Anne Krebiehl, while Stuart Pigott dubs it "a giant Spätlese, but in terms of depth and expression, not in sheer volume or density."
The 2023 Auslesen are on another level altogether and represent some of the best wines of the vintage, anywhere. The double 99-point 2023 Grafenberg Auslese is "a glorious wine of utter purity, brilliance, concentration and incredible lightness ... a Riesling that will outlast us all." The ne plus ultra, however, is the 2023 Grafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese. It will undoubtedly stand as a generational wine at the pinnacle of its category, with multiple 100-point scores already and near perfection from others. "An elixir of the utmost purity-a superlative," it's a nearly immortal creation, "highly finessed yet not made for this life or the next ... [but] for the future that is not ours anymore," as Reinhardt so poetically puts it.
You don't have to be a German wine fan to understand the specific greatness on offer in this set. If you're a collector of the world's greatest long-term cellar propositions, period, then every one of these spectacular treasures should be on your shortlist. |
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The 2022 Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese was made from grapes raisined by botrytis but without spores. Amber-gold in the glass, it sprays with candied lemon and golden blossom honey. The palate has immense sweetness and thrill, with that candied lemon intensity driven to the extreme reaches of aroma, brightness, freshness and richness. Scented with citric essence and lusciously concentrated, it is defined by full-flavored sweetness. The very purity of this wine is astonishing, memorable and so intense. Even a tiny drop radiates with citrus flavor. This is an elixir of the utmost purity—a superlative. More than 14g/L of acidity (!) stands against 300g/L. (Luscious)
100 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Oct 2024)
This unbelievable riesling TBA is the essence of dried apricots, mangoes and papayas, and it could hardly be more concentrated. It also has a truly extraordinary acidity, and this makes it as bright as any diamond that I’ve ever seen. This unique expression of Rheingau riesling is a monumental wine, also monumental in freshness. It also has almost none of the mushroom character that these wines usually have in their youth. If you like vibrant acidity you could drink it now, but I recommend as much patience as you can muster. Extremely limited production from organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.
100 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Aug 2024)
The 2023 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese displays a golden-yellow color with lime-green reflections, and it exhibits beautifully pure, perfectly ripe and concentrated tropical fruit aromas intermingled with notes of white nougat, salts and nuances of slate. Rich but highly refined and very elegant on the palate, this is a playful saline and even refined TBA with enormous density and concentration that doesn't keep out the acidity, which is fine but a laser by nature. This is highly finessed yet not made for this life or the next. It's a fantastic TBA, though its concentration and fine but cutting acidity is an assurance for the future that is not ours anymore. 8% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024.
99 points, Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (Oct 2024)
A glorious, sweet nectar of the Gods from the legendary Gräfenberg site. It's here that Robert Weil has been coaxing glorious sweet wines from its steep slopes since a legendary wine presented from the 1893 vintage wowed the German aristocracy. Stunning in its delicacy, aromas of acacia honey, toasted marshmallows and sweet peach candies. Each fully raisinated and botrytised berry was hand-selected from the intensely steep Gräfenberg site, up to 60%. The warm growing season saw late rains, and the TBA and BA wines achieved light botrytis, giving this wine an ethereal quality on the palate. Golden and gorgeously viscous with clover honey, at 300g/L, this wine packs plenty of delicious sweetness, almost effortlessly balanced by a pinpoint acidity. Lifted notes of candied lemon peel and spice bring this gossamer beauty to its conclusion. This wine will age for decades.
99 points, Clive Pursehouse, Decanter (Dec 2024)
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