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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Weingut Prager's Toni Bodenstein is indisputably in the top echelon of his generation of Austrian winemakers, and now that his son Robert has taken the helm at the revered Wachau estate, it's clear that the next generation will be one of continued brilliance.
Always among the most sought-after names in Austrian wine, Prager's flagship bottlings set the bar, vintage after vintage, for Grüner Veltliner, and today's offer features the superlative 2023s that have already found great favor among our long-time fans and collectors of Austria's best, not to mention garganutan scores from Vinous and Stuart Pigott. Each wine is a highlight unto itself, but you should take serious note of the 98-point Wachstum Bodenstein, "an incredibly delicate and subtle Grüner Veltliner in spite of the great concentration." Likewise, the "incredible intensity" and "certain aging potential" of the 98-point Achleiten Stockkultur make it a masterpiece of class and a benchmark for the category. Finally, don't miss a 99-point rarity in the Zwerithaler Kammergut, produced from a micro-parcel of 120-year-old vines owned by the local abbey. "So fluid, but so fine-boned, immensely dense and rounded but without heaviness," notes Vinous' Anne Krebiehl, it's a singular expression and one of the most unique wines in Austria.
Prager's legions of fans will find across-the-board stardom in this range, as these 2023s are yet again up there with the most highly praised wines of the vintage, and they're also available at must-see pricing that puts them among the sharpest buys in the market. |
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Medium green yellow, silver reflections. Nuances of fresh yellow currants, delicate hints of mango, nuances of meadow herbs, with fine blossom honey in the background. Juicy, fine apple fruit notes, delicate extract sweetness, integrated acidity, mineral on the finish, balanced, shows good length, secure development and certain ageing potential.
98 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2024)
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd was planted in 1997 with a varied selection of old genetics collected across Lower Austria on varying rootstocks. Bodenstein calls this wine his scientific experiment. This is planted in the upper part of the Achleiten, on rocks with very thin topsoil where Grüner struggles, but this is shaded from mid-afternoon onwards. This takes a while to open up, but there is a faint but very fine scent of citrus, almost with a touch of chervil. Again, the palate is rounder than the nose suggests, super-smooth, but with a lovely edge of zestiness, faint but utterly fresh, elongated, stony and graceful. There's quite a bit of power on the finish - beautifully long (Dry)
97 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Jul 2024)
An incredibly delicate and subtle gruner veltliner in spite of the great concentration. Beautifully ripe Reine Claude and Mirabelle plums, also a wealth of garden herb nuances, then a whole Alpine meadow of flowers cascades over you at the very long and filigreed finish. And that’s dangerous, because then you want more of the fabulous fruit and reach for the glass again. Great aging potential. Sustainable. Drink or hold.
97 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2024)
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