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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Weingut Prager's Toni Bodenstein is indisputably in the top echelon of his generation of Austrian winemakers, and now that his son Robert has taken the helm at the revered Wachau estate, it's clear that the next generation will be one of continued brilliance.
Always among the most sought-after names in Austrian wine, Prager's flagship bottlings set the bar, vintage after vintage, for Grüner Veltliner, and today's offer features the superlative 2023s that have already found great favor among our long-time fans and collectors of Austria's best, not to mention garganutan scores from Vinous and Stuart Pigott. Each wine is a highlight unto itself, but you should take serious note of the 98-point Wachstum Bodenstein, "an incredibly delicate and subtle Grüner Veltliner in spite of the great concentration." Likewise, the "incredible intensity" and "certain aging potential" of the 98-point Achleiten Stockkultur make it a masterpiece of class and a benchmark for the category. Finally, don't miss a 99-point rarity in the Zwerithaler Kammergut, produced from a micro-parcel of 120-year-old vines owned by the local abbey. "So fluid, but so fine-boned, immensely dense and rounded but without heaviness," notes Vinous' Anne Krebiehl, it's a singular expression and one of the most unique wines in Austria.
Prager's legions of fans will find across-the-board stardom in this range, as these 2023s are yet again up there with the most highly praised wines of the vintage, and they're also available at must-see pricing that puts them among the sharpest buys in the market. |
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Pale green yellow, silver reflections. A hint of grapefruit, fine yellow apple fruit nuances, delicate mango, subtle herbal savouriness, dark minerality. Powerful, taut, white apple fruit, racy acid structure, delicately herbal on the finish, salty aftertaste, lime in the aftertaste, a taut food companion, sure maturity and certain ageing potential.
98 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2024)
Incredible intensity of white and green pepper, capers and snow peas. Compact and very concentrated, with green-apple crispness and herb-garden coolness, this has great drive and vitality. Only just beginning to open up. The very long, tense finish is still tightly wound. Sustainable. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.
96 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2024)
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleiten Stockkultur Smaragd is from the middle reaches of the Achleiten and, as the name suggests, from single-stake vines, densely planted in 1937 and dry-farmed. Beautifully aromatic dried moss and some smoky yarrow are subtly spicy and savory. The palate is super-smooth and very fluid. This seems riper and denser, yet that finesse and grace are there, speaking of white pepper. The finish is rounded and smooth on this almost viscous wine. (Dry)
95 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Jul 2024)
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